Twelve outlines, and what each one demands
Shape is not decoration. It decides how much of the rough survives, where light goes once it enters the stone, and how much an inclusion or a half-degree of asymmetry will show. These are the twelve we hold.
01
Round
The most studied cut in the trade, and the only one with a grading scale devoted entirely to its proportions. Angles are held within fractions of a degree, because a round shows deviation more readily than any other shape. It carries the highest cost per carat in rough, since a round yields less finished weight than a shape that follows the crystal.
What to look for in a round- Facet family
- Brilliant
- Typical ratio
- 1.00 – 1.02
- SKU code
- RD
02
Princess
Square from above, inverted pyramid in profile. It retains far more of the original octahedral rough than a round, which is why it reached the market as the practical square brilliant. Corners are the vulnerable point and are worth examining closely on any stone intended for daily wear.
What to look for in a princess- Facet family
- Brilliant
- Typical ratio
- 1.00 – 1.05
- SKU code
- PR
03
Cushion
A direct descendant of the old mine cut, updated with modern angles. Facets are fewer and larger than a round's, so the stone reads as slow, broad flashes rather than fine scintillation. Variation between cushions is wide — two stones of the same grade can look quite different, so these are worth seeing individually.
What to look for in a cushion- Facet family
- Mixed
- Typical ratio
- 1.00 – 1.10
- SKU code
- CU
04
Emerald
A step cut: rectangular facets running parallel to the girdle, with cropped corners. There is nowhere for an inclusion to hide behind scintillation, so clarity and colour are graded conservatively here and buyers usually move a grade higher than they would on a brilliant. What it gives back is the hall-of-mirrors effect down the length of the stone.
What to look for in a emerald- Facet family
- Step
- Typical ratio
- 1.30 – 1.50
- SKU code
- EM
05
Oval
Reads larger than a round of equal weight because more of its surface faces up. The trade-off is the bow-tie — a darker band across the centre where light escapes rather than returns. Every oval has one to some degree; on a well-cut stone it is faint enough to miss.
What to look for in a oval- Facet family
- Brilliant
- Typical ratio
- 1.30 – 1.50
- SKU code
- OV
06
Pear
Half oval, half marquise. Symmetry is the thing to check: the shoulders should mirror each other and the point should sit exactly on the long axis, since any drift is obvious once the stone is set. The point is also the most exposed part of the stone and is normally protected by the mount.
What to look for in a pear- Facet family
- Brilliant
- Typical ratio
- 1.45 – 1.75
- SKU code
- PS
07
Marquise
No shape covers more surface for its weight, which makes it efficient in the hand and unforgiving in the cut. Both points must be even and the widest part must fall at the midpoint. Like the oval it can show a bow-tie, and the longer the stone, the more carefully that should be checked.
What to look for in a marquise- Facet family
- Brilliant
- Typical ratio
- 1.85 – 2.10
- SKU code
- MQ
08
Radiant
The outline of an emerald cut with the facet work of a brilliant — the shape that resolved the choice between a rectangular silhouette and active light return. Available square or elongated. It holds colour well, which is why it is a common choice in fancy-coloured goods.
What to look for in a radiant- Facet family
- Mixed
- Typical ratio
- 1.00 – 1.35
- SKU code
- RA
09
Asscher
Square in outline, with corners cut back far enough that the stone reads as an octagon and the steps draw the eye straight down to the culet. Like the emerald cut it hides nothing, so clarity is graded strictly. Higher crowns and smaller tables distinguish it from a square emerald.
What to look for in a asscher- Facet family
- Step
- Typical ratio
- 1.00 – 1.05
- SKU code
- AS
10
Heart
The most demanding outline to cut well. The two lobes must be the same height and width, the cleft must be sharp and centred, and the point must sit directly opposite it. Below roughly half a carat the outline becomes hard to read once mounted, so these are usually taken in larger sizes.
What to look for in a heart- Facet family
- Brilliant
- Typical ratio
- 0.95 – 1.10
- SKU code
- HT
11
Trillion
Cut shallow, so it spreads wide for its weight and sits low. Sides may be straight or slightly convex. Most often specified as a matched pair flanking a centre stone, which means symmetry between the two matters as much as the grade of either.
What to look for in a trillion- Facet family
- Brilliant
- Typical ratio
- 1.00 – 1.10
- SKU code
- TR
12
Hexagon
A mixed cut that keeps the six-sided outline close to the rough rather than rounding it away, faceted as a brilliant rather than in steps. Newer to the trade and less standardised than the classic shapes, so proportions vary more from one cutter to the next — worth seeing individually before a setting is chosen.
What to look for in a hexagon- Facet family
- Mixed
- Typical ratio
- 1.05 – 1.20
- SKU code
- HX
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