Its character
Square from above, inverted pyramid in profile. It retains far more of the original octahedral rough than a round, which is why it reached the market as the practical square brilliant. Corners are the vulnerable point and are worth examining closely on any stone intended for daily wear.
Where the princess cut comes from
The princess cut as it is sold today dates from around 1980, when Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz refined a square brilliant pattern. It built on earlier square brilliants such as Arpad Nagy's profile cut of the 1960s.
Its success was partly practical. A princess follows the square cross-section of an octahedral crystal, so two stones can be sawn from one crystal with much less waste than a pair of rounds. That better yield is one reason a princess usually costs less per carat than a round of similar grades.
How a princess is faceted
Most princess cuts have between 50 and 58 facets. The pavilion carries chevron-shaped facets, usually two to four rows of them, and the number of chevrons changes the look: fewer chevrons give larger, bolder flashes, while more give a finer, busier sparkle.
In profile the princess is an inverted pyramid with a relatively deep pavilion, and its corners are sharp points. Both points follow directly from the shape, and both affect how the stone should be bought and set.
Princess cut proportions
Ranges most well-cut princess stones fall within. They narrow the field; they do not replace seeing the stone.
| Measure | Typical range | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Table | 64 – 75% | A larger table than a round is normal here. |
| Depth | 64 – 75% | Above about 78%, weight is hidden below the girdle. |
| Length to width | 1.00 – 1.05 | Above 1.05 the outline reads as rectangular. |
| Girdle | Thin to slightly thick | Very thin girdles make the corners fragile. |
| Culet | None | The pavilion should meet at a point. |
| Cut grade | Not graded | Neither GIA nor IGI assigns an overall cut grade to this shape, so these are trade ranges rather than a standard. |
What to look for in a princess diamond
Depth is the figure to watch: roughly 65 to 75 percent is typical, and much deeper than that means weight carried below the girdle that does nothing face-up. Chipped or thin corners are the common fault, so a setting with a prong over each corner is standard. Its crisp outline pairs naturally with channel-set side stones and other square cuts.
- Corners
- Look for chips, naturals or extremely thin girdle at each of the four corners. They are the most common damage on a worn princess.
- Depth against spread
- Compare the millimetre measurements with the carat weight. A deep princess can weigh the same as a better-cut stone and face up noticeably smaller.
- Square outline
- Check the length-to-width ratio and that the sides are straight, not bulging or pinched.
- Polish and symmetry
- With no cut grade, polish and symmetry are the only cut-related grades on the report. Very Good or better is a sensible floor.
Setting a princess
Set a princess with a prong or V-prong over each corner, or in a bezel, so the points are covered. It suits channel settings and sits naturally beside baguettes, other princesses and square step cuts.
Princess size by carat weight
Approximate face-up size at a typical princess ratio and depth, drawn to scale. Select a weight to see natural stock in that band.
5 mm. Every silhouette is drawn to this scale, at typical proportions.
- Natural princess diamonds, 0.25–0.49 ct, about 3.5 mm face up
- Natural princess diamonds, 0.50–0.74 ct, about 4.4 mm face up
- Natural princess diamonds, 0.75–0.99 ct, about 5.1 mm face up
- Natural princess diamonds, 1.00–1.49 ct, about 5.6 mm face up
- Natural princess diamonds, 1.50–1.99 ct, about 6.4 mm face up
- Natural princess diamonds, 2.00–2.99 ct, about 7.0 mm face up
- Natural princess diamonds, 3.00 ct and above, about 8.0 mm face up
Diamond carat guide: every shape, price milestones and choosing a weight
Terms used on this page
Each one is defined in full, with what a report prints for it, in the glossary.
- Brilliant cut
- A faceting style built from triangular and kite-shaped facets radiating from the centre.
- Depth %
- The stone's height from table to culet as a percentage of its average diameter.
- Table %
- The width of the table facet as a percentage of the stone's average diameter.
- Girdle thickness
- How thick the band at the stone's widest point is, graded Extremely Thin to Extremely Thick.
- Chip
- A small shallow break at the girdle, a point or the culet.
- Spread
- How large a stone looks from above, relative to what its carat weight would suggest.
Princess cut questions
What buyers ask most often before choosing a princess diamond.
Are princess cut diamonds cheaper than round?
Usually, yes. A princess keeps more of the rough crystal's weight than a round does, so the price per carat is typically lower for the same colour, clarity and carat weight.
What depth should a princess cut diamond have?
Roughly 64 to 75 percent is typical. Much deeper stones carry weight below the girdle that does not add face-up size, so check the measurements as well as the depth figure.
Do princess cut diamonds chip easily?
Their sharp corners are more exposed than any part of a round, so they can chip if left unprotected. A setting that covers each corner largely removes that risk.