Its character
No shape covers more surface for its weight, which makes it efficient in the hand and unforgiving in the cut. Both points must be even and the widest part must fall at the midpoint. Like the oval it can show a bow-tie, and the longer the stone, the more carefully that should be checked.
Where the marquise cut comes from
The marquise, also called the navette (French for 'little boat'), is often linked to the court of Louis XV in eighteenth-century France. The popular story that it was modelled on the Marquise de Pompadour's smile is probably a legend, but the shape was certainly fashionable in that period.
It returned strongly in the 1970s and has since become a favourite for vintage-style and east-west designs.
How a marquise is faceted
A marquise usually has 56 to 58 brilliant facets, arranged symmetrically on either side of a long axis that ends in two points. Its long, shallow form spreads the weight over a large area, so a marquise shows more surface from above than any other common shape of the same carat weight.
Like the oval and pear, it can show a bow-tie across the middle, and the two points are the fragile parts of the stone.
Marquise cut proportions
Ranges most well-cut marquise stones fall within. They narrow the field; they do not replace seeing the stone.
| Measure | Typical range | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Table | 53 – 63% | |
| Depth | 58 – 63% | |
| Length to width | 1.85 – 2.10 | About 2.0 is classic. |
| Girdle | Thin to slightly thick | Check both points. |
| Culet | None | |
| Cut grade | Not graded | Neither GIA nor IGI assigns an overall cut grade to this shape, so these are trade ranges rather than a standard. |
What to look for in a marquise diamond
Sight it from point to point: both ends should sit on one axis and the outline should curve evenly on either side. A ratio near 2.0 is classic, and past about 2.2 the stone turns very narrow. The points are the fragile part, so a V-prong at each end is the usual protection.
- Point alignment
- Both points should sit on the same straight axis. Even a small offset looks crooked once the stone is set.
- Even curves
- The two sides should curve evenly, with the widest part exactly halfway between the points. Look for flat spots or bulges.
- Bow-tie
- Longer stones tend to show a stronger bow-tie. Check it on video or in person, since no report grades it.
- Colour at the tips
- Colour tends to concentrate at the points of elongated shapes, so consider a slightly higher colour grade.
Setting a marquise
V-prongs or bezels at each point are standard protection. A marquise can be set north-south or east-west, and small marquises are often arranged in clusters or as leaf and petal shapes.
Marquise size by carat weight
Approximate face-up size at a typical marquise ratio and depth, drawn to scale. Select a weight to see natural stock in that band.
5 mm. Every silhouette is drawn to this scale, at typical proportions.
- Natural marquise diamonds, 0.25–0.49 ct, about 6.7 × 3.3 mm face up
- Natural marquise diamonds, 0.50–0.74 ct, about 8.4 × 4.2 mm face up
- Natural marquise diamonds, 0.75–0.99 ct, about 9.6 × 4.8 mm face up
- Natural marquise diamonds, 1.00–1.49 ct, about 10.6 × 5.3 mm face up
- Natural marquise diamonds, 1.50–1.99 ct, about 12.1 × 6.1 mm face up
- Natural marquise diamonds, 2.00–2.99 ct, about 13.3 × 6.7 mm face up
- Natural marquise diamonds, 3.00 ct and above, about 15.3 × 7.6 mm face up
Diamond carat guide: every shape, price milestones and choosing a weight
Terms used on this page
Each one is defined in full, with what a report prints for it, in the glossary.
- Bow-tie
- A dark band across the centre of an elongated stone, shaped like a bow-tie.
- Length-to-width ratio
- The outline's proportions — length divided by width — which decides how a fancy shape reads.
- Spread
- How large a stone looks from above, relative to what its carat weight would suggest.
- Symmetry
- How precisely the facets line up with one another and with the outline.
- Brilliant cut
- A faceting style built from triangular and kite-shaped facets radiating from the centre.
- Chip
- A small shallow break at the girdle, a point or the culet.
Marquise cut questions
What buyers ask most often before choosing a marquise diamond.
Why do marquise diamonds look bigger?
A marquise spreads its weight over a long, shallow outline, giving it more visible surface area than other common shapes of the same carat weight.
What is the ideal ratio for a marquise diamond?
About 1.85 to 2.10 is typical, with 2.0 being the classic look. Stones above about 2.2 look very narrow.
Are marquise diamonds fragile?
The two points are thin and exposed, so they can chip if unprotected. A V-prong or bezel at each point is the usual solution.